The Loves · Track 44 · middle
Phở at Six, Croissant at Eight (Comfort Food)
THE STRANGE MIDDLE
No audio yet — generation pending.
Lyrics
[Verse 1] The broth started yesterday which is the only honest way to make a thing that matters — you begin it before you need it so it's ready when you do Bà ngoại's phở took fourteen hours and she never timed it She knew it was done the way you know a conversation is over — not by the clock but by the weight of what's been said Xương bò ninh từ chiều hôm qua The beef bones have been simmering since yesterday afternoon and the apartment smells like Huế at low tide and star anise and the particular patience of a woman who believes that time is an ingredient [Verse 2] I eat the phở at six standing at the counter in the shirt I slept in with the window cracked and the city still dark and the broth reintroducing me to my own skeleton By eight I am dressed and the boulangerie on Rue Keller has just pulled the croissants and the woman behind the counter knows my order which is one croissant and one pain au chocolat and she wraps them in paper the way my grandmother wrapped bánh in banana leaves — not tight, not loose the exact pressure of someone who has wrapped ten thousand things and trusts the fold [Pre-Chorus] I don't choose between them The phở is not more real than the croissant The croissant is not more French than the phở My stomach is bilingual My comfort has two accents and I am done apologizing for the second one [Chorus] Comfort food is the love that doesn't argue It doesn't ask where you're from It asks what you need and then it gives you salt and heat and something that has been waiting for you longer than you knew you were on your way Phở at six Croissant at eight Both of them holding me together the way two hands hold a bowl — from underneath without being asked without needing thanks just — holding [Bridge] Bà ngoại never said the broth was love She said nêm lại đi — taste it again adjust the salt She said comfort is not a feeling it's a measurement Too little fish sauce and the broth is polite Too much and the broth is showing off The right amount and the broth disappears and all you taste is the thing you didn't know you were missing Món ăn ngon nhất là món ăn khi đói The best meal is the one eaten when you're hungry She said this every single time as if hunger itself were the seasoning and she was right and she was always right and the broth is always ready and I am always hungry in the exact way she predicted [Final Chorus] Comfort food is the love that never publishes never presents never asks to be cited It just shows up at six a.m. in a pot that started yesterday and at eight a.m. in a paper bag from a woman who wraps things the way grandmothers do Phở at six Croissant at eight Two countries One belly The comfort is that my body has room for both