Odes to Joy

The Loves · Track 44 · middle

Phở at Six, Croissant at Eight (Comfort Food)

THE STRANGE MIDDLE

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Lyrics

[Verse 1]
The broth started yesterday
which is the only honest way
to make a thing that matters —
you begin it
before you need it
so it's ready
when you do

Bà ngoại's phở took fourteen hours
and she never timed it
She knew it was done
the way you know a conversation is over —
not by the clock
but by the weight
of what's been said

Xương bò ninh từ chiều hôm qua
The beef bones have been simmering
since yesterday afternoon
and the apartment smells
like Huế at low tide
and star anise
and the particular patience
of a woman
who believes
that time is an ingredient

[Verse 2]
I eat the phở at six
standing at the counter
in the shirt I slept in
with the window cracked
and the city still dark
and the broth
reintroducing me
to my own skeleton

By eight I am dressed
and the boulangerie on Rue Keller
has just pulled the croissants
and the woman behind the counter
knows my order
which is one croissant
and one pain au chocolat
and she wraps them
in paper
the way my grandmother
wrapped bánh in banana leaves —
not tight, not loose
the exact pressure
of someone who has wrapped
ten thousand things
and trusts the fold

[Pre-Chorus]
I don't choose between them
The phở is not more real
than the croissant
The croissant is not more French
than the phở
My stomach is bilingual
My comfort has two accents
and I am done
apologizing
for the second one

[Chorus]
Comfort food is the love
that doesn't argue
It doesn't ask
where you're from
It asks
what you need
and then it gives you salt
and heat
and something
that has been waiting for you
longer than you knew
you were on your way

Phở at six
Croissant at eight
Both of them
holding me together
the way two hands hold a bowl —
from underneath
without being asked
without needing thanks
just — holding

[Bridge]
Bà ngoại never said
the broth was love
She said
nêm lại đi — taste it again
adjust the salt
She said comfort
is not a feeling
it's a measurement
Too little fish sauce
and the broth is polite
Too much
and the broth is showing off
The right amount
and the broth
disappears
and all you taste
is the thing
you didn't know
you were missing

Món ăn ngon nhất là món ăn khi đói
The best meal is the one
eaten when you're hungry
She said this
every single time
as if hunger itself
were the seasoning
and she was right
and she was always right
and the broth
is always ready
and I am always hungry
in the exact way
she predicted

[Final Chorus]
Comfort food is the love
that never publishes
never presents
never asks to be cited
It just shows up
at six a.m.
in a pot
that started yesterday
and at eight a.m.
in a paper bag
from a woman
who wraps things
the way grandmothers do

Phở at six
Croissant at eight
Two countries
One belly
The comfort
is that my body
has room
for both
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